How to Refinish Furniture

Most homeowners do not know how to refinish furniture and, because of this, they give up on some hidden treasures. Some of the furniture inherited from Grandma has nice lines and is probably solid wood but has a very ugly finish. It may even look hopeless – a thick, dark crust that seems impenetrable. Under that discouraging surface may lie a treasure such as a tiger maple table. Learning how to refinish furniture is the key to uncovering the hidden treasures in old furniture.

Strip Away the Old Finish

The first and most difficult task in how to refinish furniture is to remove the old finish. Sometimes there is more than one layer to contend with, so this process can take a good deal of patience and perseverance. Just keep the goal in mind. Under all that ugly may be unexpected beauty. Stripping takes time but is ultimately rewarding.

For furniture stripping, the following furniture refinishing products are needed:

• Floor protection such as tarp, drop cloth or newspapers
• Rubber stripping gloves to protect hands
• 3″ putty knife
• Natural bristle paint brush
• Safety glasses or goggles
• Plenty of cotton rags
• Brass bristle brushes
• Stripper
• Rinse solvent or a bucket of water
• Most important: a well-ventilated workplace and/or a carbon respirator

The chemicals needed to dissolve old finish are toxic and must be handled with care. They can also burn skin or damage eyes if splashed. For this reason, it is necessary to take the necessary precautions when learning how to refinish furniture.

Most people should start with a chemical stripper. Sanding away the old finish is difficult and should be left to those with more experience. While belt and disc sanders can do the job quickly, they can also permanently mar the piece by removing top layers of wood.

The first step is to carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions. Pay close attention to safety recommendations. Choose a methylane chloride-based stripper that will wash away with water, or a “no clean-up” product.

Sometimes it is desirable to keep the patina in a piece of old furniture. To do this, use mineral spirits or lacquer thinner to remove the stripper once it has done its job.

Strippers may come in liquid or paste form, as gels or as semi-pastes. Liquid strippers can be used only on horizontal surfaces. In general, follow these steps:

1. Apply a thick coat of stripper to a manageable area.
2. Leave the stripper undisturbed for the length of time recommended by the manufacturer.
3. Test with a putty knife to see whether the finish has softened.
4. As soon as the putty knife will cut through the finish, remove as much paint or varnish as possible with the putty knife. Take care not to gouge the wood.
5. Scrub surface with #2 grade steel wool. For stubborn spots, soak the steel wool in stripper. If paint is embedded in the wood grain, use a soft brass bristle brush to scrub it out.
6. Follow manufacturer’s directions to clean stripper from the wood.
7. Once as much finish has been removed as possible with chemical stripper, let the piece dry thoroughly. This will take at least 24 hours.

Prepare the Wood for New Finish

A certain amount of sanding will always be required after stripper is used. If water has been employed to remove the chemical, the wood grain will be raised a bit, and this will need to be sanded. “No clean-up” strippers may leave a residue that should be sanded away. Usually, some of the old finish will still need to be removed by sanding.

In order to get a uniformly smooth surface of wood for the finishing process, follow these steps:

1) Remove the last vestiges of old paint and varnish with 120-grit sandpaper. Pay special attention to curves and ornamentation. Smooth out any bad places in the wood.

2) Smooth the entire piece with 220 grit sandpaper. If sanding by hand, sand with the grain. On flat surfaces, wrap sandpaper around a flat sanding block to achieve a uniform smoothness.

3) On woods with an open grain structure such as oak, walnut and mahogany, apply grain filler to achieve a smooth, even surface. Select a color that will give the desire results, such as emphasizing grain or closely matching the finish color.

4) Follow the manufacturer’s directions for best results. Some grain fillers should be applied before the stain and some after.

5) Using a cotton rag or a stiff paint brush, apply the paste filler. Work it into the grain and let it dry as directed. Remove excess with a plastic scraper. Be careful not to gouge the wood.

6) Lightly sand with the grain.

7) Apply sanding sealer to reduce the tendency of some woods to absorb stains unevenly and to seal end-grain. Sanding sealer can be purchased or made by the hobbyist by thinning the material to use for the final finish 50-50 with mineral spirits.

8 ) Apply a heavy coat of sealer and let it soak in for a few minutes. Wipe off excess with a clean cotton rag. Allow to dry completely and sand lightly with 360-400 grit sandpaper.

9) For ease of use and environmental safety, use a water-based stain in the desired color. Dampen the wood first with a rag that is moist but not wet. Apply stain with a cotton rag or a brush, following the grain of the wood. Wipe off excess stain.

10) Allow the wood to dry completely, finish-sand again, and repeat for a deeper color.

11) Give a final sanding to smooth completely and dust thoroughly with cotton rags.

Apply the New Finish

Choose the type of finish that will be most appropriate for the piece. While polyurethane give a durable finish, it may not be appropriate for fine furniture, especially antiques. Penetrating oil finishes are easy to apply and will provide the natural appearance desired in fine wood pieces. Lacquer gives a great finish but is more difficult to apply

In order to produce a beautiful finish with penetrating oils, follow these steps:

1. Choose a penetrating oil such as “Tung,” “Danish” or “antique” oil. Use a soft, clean cotton rag to apply the oil.
2. Allow the oil to penetrate, then remove excess with another clean, soft cotton rag, rubbing and buffing to press oil deeper into the wood.
3. Apply several coats of oil until a soft, natural appearance is achieved.
4. Repair small scratches and defects by sanding and rubbing more oil into the affected area.
5. Protect the new finish with a quality paste wax.

Learning how to refinish furniture is time-consuming and requires persistence. When removing the old finish, the hobbyist may become discouraged and think the piece is ruined. If he or she persists, the results can be amazing. That old decrepit-looking table that used to stand in the corner can be brought out into the light. Stand back and enjoy the compliments on a job well done.